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At
Aranmulla, there is a temple dedicated to Lord
Krishna and Arjuna, thousands of people gather on
the banks of the river Pamba to witness the exciting
Snake Boat races. Nearly 30 chundan vallams or snake
boats participate in the festival.
Owned
by villages bordering the river from the hills to
the low lying plains- a stretch of about 40
kilometres - these boats are steered by oarsmen
dressed in white dhotis and turbans. Singing
traditional boat songs, the oarsmen splash their
oars into the water to the rhythm of the songs. They
guide their boats to cruise along, seemingly like a
fish on the move. The golden lace at the head of the
boat, the flag and the ornamental umbrella at the
centre make it a spectacular show of pageantry.
Though ostensibly a competitive event, the festival
is more a visual extravaganza.
To
date on the eve of Thiru Onam the boat Palliodam
floats down from Katoormana to the accompaniment of
blowing of conch shells, music and drum beating.
Torches are lit and snake boats accompany the
procession. The colourful boat festival is held on
Uthruttathi or the fifth day after Thiru Onam.
Each
snake boat belongs to a village along the banks of
the river Pamba and is worshipped like a deity. Only
men are allowed to board or even touch a boat and
that just barefoot. Every year the boat is oiled
mainly with fish oil, coconut shell, and carbon,
mixed with eggs. The black mixture keeps the wood
strong and the boat slippery in the water. Annual
repairs are carried out lovingly by the village
carpenter and people take pride in their boat, which
represents their village and is named after it.
Tradition demands that the Nambudiri Brahmin be at
the main rudder oar about 12 feet long. There are
four main oarsmen who control the movement of the
boat. And in minutes the boat can turn around just
by the twist of the hand by the chief oarsman. In
the old days the villagers used to sit in the boat
in order of their castes but today the order is
changing though a certain pattern can still be
distinguished.
Everyone- the carpenter, the barber, the goldsmith,
the blacksmith as well as the agricultural labourers
- all have a place on the boat. And in close harmony
and magnificent synchronization they pull at the
oars. In Trichur, a vibrant procession with
resplendently caparisoned elephants is taken out.
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