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The forms of attire, the four forms of acting and
the various techniques in stage presentation of
kathakali also merit consideration. Kathakali,
though in a sense is a particular way of dramatic
action, is certainly different from the modern form
of dramatics, in its dressing systems, ways of
action and stage arrangements. In this case, it is
indebted to the ancient Indian dramatic systems like
koodiyattom.
The attires in kathakali do not represent
individuals, but are manifestations of the three
gunas of nature, i.e., satya (light or noble) rajas
(aggressive) and tamas (darkness) represented by
pacha, kathi and thadi respectively. Thus characters
of the attakkatha who have similar attributes must
have similar dressing systems also. The attire of
important noble characters like Nala, Harischandra,
Dharmaputra will be similar in form and action.
Aggressive personalities like Ravana, Hiranya and
Duryodhana will also have the same dressing system
that is kathi. Characters of darkness like bali,
baka or dussasana also will have a similar dress and
it is called thadi. The dress in kathakali can be
divided into many forms namely pacha, thadi, kathi,
kari and minukku. It is because the face of
important noble characters are painted with green
colour that the dress is technically called pacha.
The cheeks of the actors are coloured using rice
flour (chutti), their eyes and eye-brows are painted
with collyrium, lips are painted and thus the whole
face is made unusually beautiful, and make the
attire complete by using crown, shirt, skirt, upper
garments and ornaments. There are specialists in the
green room (chuttikkar) who help the actors in their
dressing.
Kathi is a form of attire which is more imposing
than pacha. The actor comes to the stage after
thiranottam. It has many particularities when
compared to pacha. The chutti paint will be more
spread out, and the paint in the shape of a small
ball (chuttippoovu) will be pasted on the tip of the
nose and in the middle of the headband. The
remaining attire is similar to that of pacha.
There are two types of kathi attire, that is
kurumkathi and nedumkathi. They make roaring sounds
at the time of appearance and in between action.
Thadi has three types of dressing systems namely
red, white and black, Terrible characters like
Rakshasas, Asuras and some cruel kings appear in
this attire - this is supposed to be the most
horrifying character in kathakali.
Thadi has some variation in the type of dressing,
daubing and painting as well as bearing the crown.
The name thadi was given because of the artificial
beard below the lower jaw. Baka, Dussasana and the
like wear red thadi, Hanuman, Nandikeswara and the
like bear white beard while the characters like Kali
in Nalacharitam are examples of black beard.
Narasimham which appears as a terrible deity wears
white beard. Terrible characters like Kiratas and
the women are also given kari dress. Kiratas are
called male kari and rakshasis, female kari.
Black colour is the most important part of this
dress, and other colours are used to project
blackness. The crowns and garments are more or less
the same for both men and women characters of this
group. A male kari will have feather like chutti on
the face and the chuttippoovu on the tip of the
nose. It will have a black artificial beard also.
The face of female kari will be painted black and
white spots made on them. The crown of kari is
cylindrical in shape.
The wild and brutish characters of Nalacharitham and
the woman characters of Kiratam like Nakra Thundi
and Shurpanakha are examples of men and women in the
kari group. At the same time minukku is generally
intended for noble characters. Their faces are
adorned with yellow coloured manayola powder.
Minukku system is used by Brahman, Rishis and women
characters. Also this is the system used by
messengers, bards, chariot drivers, carpenter and
washerman who represent the different castes of
society. After painting their face, they apply
collyrium to eyes and eye-brows. They also keep
white moustache, redden lips and draw a white line
over it, keep artifical hair in white or black in
order to appear as a sage.
Brahmanas will have head-dress, a cloth covering the
chest and ornaments. Narada, and Vasishta will have
a white beard and Viswamitra and Sukra will have a
black beard. However characters like birds (Hamsam,
Garuda for example), humorous characters like
Vidyujjihva and terrible characters like Bhadrakali
and kritya do not belong to any of these groups and
their way of dressing are different. Certain
characters in kathakali like Shurpanakha and
Simhika, need to wear bloody attire. The appearance
of bloody characters in kathakali is very rare.
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